The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves pdf


    The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore. Vol. 1 The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by Chiang C Mei (MIT, USA). Vol. 2 Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists by Robert G. Get this from a library! The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. [Chiang C Mei].

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    The Applied Dynamics Of Ocean Surface Waves Pdf

    The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves / Chiang C. Mei Publisher: Singapore: World Scientific, c; Digital Description: application/pdf, xx, p. This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic. Request PDF on ResearchGate | The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves | The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean.

    Osborne and M. We study the nonlinear interaction of waves propagating in the same direction in shallow water characterized by a double-peaked power spectrum. The starting point is the prototypical equation for weakly nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water, i. The validity of the resulting model and the stability of their plane wave solutions is discussed. We show that when retaining higher order dispersive terms in the system, plane wave solutions become modulationally unstable. DOI: A fundamental question that natu- propagation of one single wave train.

    Furthermore, similarly coarse resolutions have been employed successfully in earlier coastal wave studies see, e. The coast extends from just south of the Chesapeake Bay mouth Chesapeake Bay and barrier island inlets along the coast are not resolved and are not the focus of this study.

    Figure 1 Open in figure viewer PowerPoint Model bathymetry and domain. The eastern, northern, and southern boundaries of the domain are open ocean boundaries. NAM wind vectors are obtained at 12 km resolution every 6 h and interpolated to the finer Delaware Bay.

    Rogue Waves: From Nonlinear Schrödinger Breather Solutions to Sea-Keeping Test

    Wind speeds are converted to surface stresses based on a log profile and drag coefficients from Large and Pond to force the circulation model. The wind velocity vector varies significantly spatially and seasonally Figure 2. Notably, wind speeds in the bay are lower than on the shelf. Spring and autumn months in the record show moderate wind speeds with greater directional variability. SWAN is forced at the open boundaries by hourly archived WaveWatchIII wave data of significant wave height, peak period, and peak wave direction polar.

    Waves imposed at the boundaries propagate into the modeling domain and are hence remotely generated. Ten depth layers are specified in ROMS. The wave frequency resolution in the SWAN model is logarithmically spaced from 0.

    Our results indicate that this frequency range is usually adequate in this study to resolve the energy containing range of waves. Note also that simulating waves at higher frequencies is associated with significant uncertainties in parameterizing the source terms e.

    Chiang C. Mei

    Mynett, A. Ocean Res. Y Tong, P. Aranha, J. Haren, P. Serman, D. Ocean Engineering, Royal Astro. Foda, M.

    McTigue, D. Methods in Geomechanics, Tuck, E. Solid Structures, 19 1 Turpin, F.

    Stamnes, J. Also in Wave Motion Energy Resources Technol. Physical Oceanography, 14 2 Lo, E. Agnon, Y. Engineering Mech.

    Fluid Mechanics. Shibata, M.

    The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves (eBook, ) []

    Hara, T. Geomechanics, Enmgineering Mech. Naciri, M. Liu, K. Coastal Res. Royal Soc. London, A, At the Technical University of Berlin, we have successfully produced breather solutions of the NLS and used for the first time in sea-keeping tests, opening up new perspectives in the methodology of examining offshore structures and ships against rogue waves.

    The solution considered in the present study is the Peregrine breather. It is characterized by an amplification factor of three [10] , [11] : an unstable quasi-monochromatic wave with initial amplitude will lead during the evolution to a peak amplitude of!

    In principle, the Peregrine solution can be built with arbitrary initial wave steepness, , with the wave number of the carrier wave; however, in nature, steepness hardly reaches values larger than 0. While this represents a limitation in the theoretical description, it turns out that it is an advantage from an engineering perspective.

    Indeed, the possibility of creating a deterministic wave characterized by a maximum wave height for a given frequency allows one to study the impact of a breaking rogue wave on structures or ships, being in principle much more dangerous than non breaking ones e.

    Being nonlinear, the equations are not easy to solve analytically and numerically; therefore, the physics of water waves is hidden by such difficulties.